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The veneer on the rails were mostly gone or ready to simply peel off,
however there was a bit that still needed my extra special removal technique.
drum roll plz ....... WATER & a bit of patience
Most glue used in the past to adhere veneers to furniture are water soluble there fore will soften once
water has penetrated into it. All you need to do is let a damp cloth sit on the veneer for a period of
time then come along and start peeling it away.
No need for harsh heat, damaging chisels, or needless sanding.
Below you can see she is almost thru the sanding phase. (rear bed)
A few days of priming, sanding, and painting and shes complete.
Oh silly me did I forget something .....
The rose applique I used was bought at a second-hand store and stamped with
1974 Miller Studio Inc.
Its a wall hanging made of some kind of fiber glass material
that I had to sand flat on the back side to sit flush with the head board before nailing in place.
Heres a sneak peak at tomorrows post.
SEE YOU THEN.
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This bed frame was originally an odd size, maybe something from
Goldilocks and the three bears.
Too wide to be a queen yet too short to be a king.
Using the sliding compound mitre saw I cut a total of 14" off the head and foot boards
Making it just right for a queen size mattress and boxspring and hopefully Goldilocks too.
The rails were each cut shorter by 2" but still needed a support built for the
boxspring or cross supports to sit on.
I used some hardwood frame pieces from an MDF dresser that had seen better days.
When using second hand lumber there is usually a bit of stripping needed.
Above you can see several staples had to be removed.
Once cut to fit the length of your rail, drill counter sink holes every 16"
Then predrill thru for your screws to attach to the rails.
Then screw your new supports to the bottom edge of each rail.
Next secure your hardware brackets to your rails before measuring the right width on each post.
In this case, a queen size is 60" wide.
Ive used ajustable brackets for the head and foot boards as well
so the entire bed can be adjusted to fit where ever it is set up.
I distressed the entire bed frame with a coarse 50 grit, then 240 grit, and finally a 400 grit.
I was ordered into the shower afterward as I was black from head to toe.
The frame was finished off with 3 coats of Minwax wipe on poly.
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I started this bed last week along with a few other pieces so I have been rotating
between them all.
This queen bed in an antiqued finish is finally completed.
Before I was able to get to the fun part of this make over
I had to get down and dirty with the before.
and do some interesting repairs that Im sharing with you.
The bottom of each post had some damage in the form of missing wood.
It was simply a bad design to start with.
Over the years each time the posts hit the ground hard enough bits would break off.
So a new design was needed, in the form of new feet.
Here enters the bun feet, some wood filler, and finishing nails.
You need the nails to act as a stabalizer for the filler.
Like rebar is to concrete.
I nailed them part way in where the wood is missing.
Start filling in the voids with your wood filler.
Then start to shape it with your finger. It does take a day or so to completely harden.
Once it starts to harden
I screwed the bun feet in and adhered them with glue.
Here you can see it sanded fairly smooth.
Some areas needed a bit more filler so I filled again, let it dry, and sanded once more.
This bed is really pretty with the dark original stain coming thru.
It is finished in Min Wax wipe on Poly.
It has adjustable rails.
and I installed supports for your cross bars.
Here is a sneak peak at whats in store tomorrow:
These Twins can be found here
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